Let’s Clean Up Fashion

 

by Kate Griffiths

Annual fashion survey reveals major brands like talking responsibility but many are still not delivering a fair living wage. http://www.cleanupfashion.co.uk/images/pdf/letscleanupfashion2009.pdf

A fortnight ago Labour behind the Label, the campaign that believes everyone with a stake in the garment industry has a responsibility to improve working conditions, released its annual ‘Let’s Clean up Fashion’ report which surveys the state of pay on the UK high street.

The report recognized that in the past four years many of the biggest brands and retailers on the UK high street have indeed, publicly accepted that garment workers wages need to increase. Yet it was also quite apparent in recognising that many of the plans and so called projects to enable such an overhaul in an industry tarnished by the ‘race to the bottom’ mentality, have not come anywhere near having a tangible impact on eradicating poverty wages.

In fact, the shameful truth is that still, the majority of workers in the global fashion industry rarely earn more than $2 a day. That’s in an industry worth over 36 billion in the UK alone!! (I did say it was a shameful truth)

We all know the phrase ‘Corporate Social Responsibility’ and understand that a lot of brands nowadays throw it around to try and earn brownie points with their customer base.

So, who is really being responsible? It’s complex, but believe me, it’s disgraceful!

In the 2008 report, a four pillar framework that underlies a meaningful ‘living wage’ initiative was introduced. This was; to use of a collaborative (multi-stakeholder) approach, support worker organisation and participation, examine commercial factors throughout the supply chain and lastly, create a clear road map to implementing the living wage for all workers. Responses this year indicated that the framework was accepted at least in terms of reporting, but by no means was motivating brands to act in all four areas.

Instead we have a number of brands focusing their measly efforts on either one or two areas of the framework and consequently NOT doing what they could be doing for their size and power in the industry.

One point that struck me was despite the best efforts of last years report, setting out example actions that brands could take to promote and support the right of freedom of association and collective bargaining within their supply chain, NOT ONE brand made the grade for properly engaging with freedom of association!

This, along with collective bargaining is an ENABLING RIGHT, it would allow workers to be more organised and involved in setting wage levels. Positive steps have been taken by Gap, Next, Tesco, M&S, Arcadia and Aurora Fashions on this issue but much, much more needs to be done to transform talk into tangible changes.

Whilst the survey was not even acknowledged by Alexon, BHS, Ethel Austin, House of Fraser or the Peacock Group we have seen distinct improvements from brands such as Burberry, Gap, Monsoon Accessorize, New Look, Next and believe it or not Primark!

Primark in particular were acknowledged for their efforts in changing so radically, the rest of the group were also praised as they now seem to have a more systematic approach to wage improvements.

Whatsmore, as of October 7th, a new and exciting initiative The Asian Floor Wage was launched and is now in operation to combat the issue that there is no consensus on a living wage level. Trade unions, NGOs and activists from six garment producing countries are working together to ensure that unions and workers across the world of fashion do not have to choose simply between unemployment and exploitation.

They will together negotiate and agree a sum to calculate a figure for a ‘’floor wage”. This wage is described as a minimum amount below which NO worker, regardless of nationality, gender or workplace, should be paid.

It’s a shame that all these brands that ‘care’ have to be firmly steered on the issue of how much to pay workers just to provide decent work that allows people to LIVE. But, hey we have been waiting ten years!

Let’s hope this pressure facilitates real changes in the people’s lives, who work hard everyday to make the clothes on our backs and that the 2010 report see dramatic changes in brands policies and practices around this imperative issue.

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