Jen Marsden & Fashion Going Green

by Jen Marsden

With UK wide Oxfam Shops, the first People Tree & Terra Plana Pop Up Shop in Brighton, Traid and Howies we are witnessing the slow but sure trickle effect of Ethical Fashion in the high street and this is great news, which we can all celebrate. We invited Jen Marsden, author of the soon to be released Green Guide To Fashion & Beauty to give her views on fashion going green.

How do you see fashion going green in the mainstream? Fashion already is going green in the mainstream. Design is better. Quality has vastly improved (and often exceeds the conventional). Prices are getting more reasonable. What consumers are looking for now is good access. With more specifically ethical pop up shops appearing around the country, ethical fashion is becoming far more accessible. I’ve noticed massive changes in the past two years alone. Many high streets shops are undertaking good work both with their own supply chains - M&S is the perfect British example - and in having capsule collections of existing ethical brands, such as Julia Smith, People Tree, Bibico and Junky Styling all stocked in Topshop’s flagship store. We need to spread these achievements further. I think Oxfam’s Boutiques (appearing across major cities including Nottingham, Edinburgh, Oxford and London) have really got its eye on the ball by combining a collection of ‘Loved for Longer’ vintage clothing, Reinvented exclusive one offs, designer and fair trade fashion. Couple that with the only expanding area in fashion retail - online - and it looks very promising indeed. Established online retailers such as Adili, Fashion-Conscience, Devidoll and Bochica are really pushing the limits in offering high quality service, details into the story behind the garments, great photography and considered ethical policies.

What do you believe consumers understand by ethical & fair trade fashion? It really depends on your values doesn’t it? Some may enjoy seeking out a vintage find; others may enjoy buying from scratch knowing that every part of the supply chain has been considered to their own ethical priorities, be it vegan, fair trade, organic or local. Generally as consumers become ever-savvier and opt for a simpler life, garments that don’t produce such detriment to the environment (in terms of water usage and dyeing processes) are likely to play a vital role. This could be through fashioning existing clothes into something more contemporary (the concept of ‘upcycling’). Or, it could be through putting a value on the unique nature of our clothes, realising the benefit of clothes handmade using traditional skillfulness that do not require such energy intensive processes.

Where would you like to see innovation in ethical fashion? Ahh the innovation has already begun! Unlike large manufacturers and retailers, ethical fashion brands - and in particular young graduates unafraid to think outside of the box - are regularly pushing the creativity of fashion to new heights, from finding new solutions in durable eco fabrics (that are not as thirsty as cotton) to finding new design concepts that promote multi-functionality that help create our perfect capsule wardrobes. I would like to see clothes focusing on good solid tailoring like it was back in the day - to a level of quality that comes with a guarantee, so that we invest in our wardrobe and view our garments as timeless pieces. With this in mind, there is much potential for retailers to not just sell but to provide a service of wear AND repair. I think the transparency coming through track & trace systems such as Made By and larger retailers are a good thing in helping consumers to understand the supply chain and to hold businesses who are not dressing fair to account.

Any further comments to your customers……

As consumers we have huge potential to help the transformation of fashion being ethical as standard within our shopping spheres. As appealing as it may seem at times, what we need to do is refrain from fast fashion! When we buy a £3 t-shirt, we don’t see the true cost of fashion because the producers don’t sit on our doorstep to remind us.

When you buy from the high street, ask questions: Where was this made? Who by? What’s your ethical policy? And challenge the greenwash that currently exists: What certification do you use to guarantee this garment is organic, like you say? Buy fashion that comes with a trustworthy guarantee, such as the FAIRTRADE Mark or the Soil Association organic symbol.

Shop with your heart and feet as well as your purse.

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